Paris Fashion Week ended with a bang March 5, thanks to presentations by Louis Vuitton, Hermès and Miu Miu.
This was a defining moment for new LV designer Nicolas Ghesquière, formerly of Balenciaga, who took the reigns after a 14-year run by Marc Jacobs. Ghesquière’s first collection will be remembered for its distinct A-line shapes, which cued a 1960s vibe. His materials, however, were thoroughly 21st century: patchwork leathers, crocodile, industrial zippers, molded bodices and hand-sculpted feathers. My favorite looks were any of the dresses or skirts fashioned with front zippers and belts—which was just about everything. Thanks to its history, Louis Vuitton is indeed one of the “untouchable” houses, but Ghesquière hit a home run on his first effort, modernizing the portfolio and giving us all high hopes for what lies ahead.
Over at Miu Miu the runway focused on quilted nylon. It appeared as jackets, skirts and dresses, along with bold, snappy wool coats, both long and short. The key for designer Miuccia Prada was that nothing turns out too puffy. And she succeeded—except when it came to my favorite piece in the collection, a lapelled overcoat, which resembles a parti-colored standard poodle. As the clothing progressed in the show, Prada introduced every texture imaginable, including silk, brocade, knit and plastic. Fashion’s revolutionary spirit remains just that. In the audience, Rihanna was seen with Oscar winner Lupita Nyong'o.
At Hermès, Christophe Lemaire presented a subdued silhouette—long to mid-length—in highly texturized and luxurious fabrics. The palette was charcoal, camel, black and cream. Oversized suits and coats gave the runway looks a masculine feel. My favorite nuance of this collection was the varying styles of collars shown. We never knew what we were going to get next—a surprise around every turn.
For more from Paris Fashion Week, visit style.com to see a complete list of shows.
Melinda Sheckells - Guest Blogger and Editor, Crystals Magazine
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